How Are Ocean Waves Created

There is a disturbing lack of serious literature on this. Potential #blog-ideas to document how bad the literature on this is and publish a more scientific explanation.

The most intuitive explanation I could find is that when two fluids (like air and water) rub against each other, friction opposes the direction of the water (which is going in the relative opposite direction of the wind). This causes some water to get left behind and pile up, which forms the wave. Note: A wave consists of movement of energy, not water itself.

What this doesn’t explain - why are there peaks and troughs of water, as opposed to a constant raised wave wherever there is wind? Better phrased: if there is a constant wind for a given distance, why is the general wavelength of a wave much shorter than that distance?

Another question: Why are waves at the beach periodic? This is answered by this article: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/434524/ocean-wave-periodicity

#update 01-23-23 — I actually found the rigorous explanation on this wikipedia page: Wind wave - Wikipedia 202301231537. I wasn’t able to take great notes on the explanation, but this is what

Note for myself: Stackexchange is a good resource for rigorous explanations 202301160116

uid: 202301160000 tags: #knowledge

Date

February 22, 2023

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